How to Make a Versatile Cedar Planter Box
This planter box works well for planting fresh herbs, topiaries, trees, shrubs, vegetables and of course your favorite flowers.
Wood Required
| Quantity | Size |
2 | 2” x 4” x 8’ |
1 | 2” x 4” x 4’ |
4 | 1” x 6” x 8’ |
1 | 2” x 2” x 8’ |
1 | 5/4” x 6” x 8’ |
I made my planter box out of cedar, which smells great and weathers very well. I kept mine natural to easily blend with any outdoor patio style. You could also paint or stain it to match your own personal style.
Wood Cuts
Start with your 2” x 4” x 8’ lengths. Cut 1/8” off one end so you have a clean, straight edge. You are now ready to set up a stop block and cut all of your pieces. (A stop block acts as your guide, guaranteeing every piece will be cut exactly the same.)
| Cuts | Quantity |
2” x 4” x 8’ | 8 @ 16” (l) 4 @ 12” (l) x 1-5/8” (w) 4 @ 13-1/4” (l) x 1-5/8” (w) |
1” x 6” x 8’ | 12 @ 14" (l) 3 @ 14-1/2" (l) 2 @ 15 7/8” (l) x 1-1/4" (w) 2@ 13 3/8” (l) x 1-1/4" (w) |
2” x 2” x 8’ | 2 @ 15 7/8" (l) with 45° ends 2 @ 14-3/4” (l) with 45° ends |
5/4” x 6” x 8’ | 2 @ 21-1/4” (l) x 4" (w) with 45° ends 2 @ 22-5/8” (l) x 4” (w) with 45° ends |
Planter Legs
After the basic cuts are done, it’s time to make the legs. I recommend using a table saw for this. Cut your 16” (l) pieces of your 2” x 4" at 3-1/2” (w) on a 45° angle.
Leg Clamp
Glue and clamp the 45° angle pieces together and secure with brad nails. (You must use exterior glue.) Leave it clamped for 24 hours.
Pre-Assembly
Practice makes perfect! I always like to lay out everything and pre-assemble to make sure it all works together before it’s permanently assembled.
Assembly
Measure 14" down on all four legs to mark the leg supports.
Clamp your two 13-1/4" x 1-5/8" pieces to the top of the legs and at the 14" mark. On the top and bottom rail, toenail with a 3" treated-wood screw so it’s not visible.
Face Panels
After completing the frame, set three 14" lengths inside the frame. Place two 14” boards vertically (as shown below) for a tight fit before screwing. Make sure the boards are flush on top before pinning and nailing to the frame. Repeat this process for the other side.
Add the 15-7/8" lengths with the 45° edges to the bottom of the 14" lengths.
With the two side gables complete, you can now clamp and attach the 12” (l) x 1 5/8” pieces. Repeat screwing and secure as before.
Use two screws (top and bottom) per board and four screws per side, which secures the boards to the frame.
Secure two 14-3/4" pieces with 45° ends to the frame using 3” screws as shown.
Take your three 14-1/2" (l) pieces and drill nine holes for drainage. Secure the boards to the base of the unit.
Mold bed liner to the inside frame of the box and secure it with two 15-7/8” x 1-1/4" (w) and two 13-3/8” x 1-1/4" (w) pieces. Once secured, cut off excess wrap.
Pre-assemble the top trim pieces and tweak them as necessary so you get a perfect fit before securing.
Once your top pieces are ready, they need to be glued, clamped and pinned together before securing to the top.
After securing all 45° together, secure the top frame to the box by pinning.
I mix cedar sawdust with exterior glue to make a paste used to fill the pin holes. After the glue has dried, sand all edges and surfaces smooth using an orbital sander.
You are done. Start planting!
Text and photos by Barry Maruk
Barry Maruk is a carpenter with a creative passion for design and photography.
