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This planter box works well for planting fresh herbs, topiaries, trees, shrubs, vegetables and of course your favorite flowers.
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| Quantity | Size |
| 2 | 2” x 4” x 8’ |
| 1 | 2” x 4” x 4’ |
| 4 | 1” x 6” x 8’ |
| 1 | 2” x 2” x 8’ |
| 1 | 5/4” x 6” x 8’ |
I made my planter box out of cedar, which smells great and weathers very well. I kept mine natural to easily blend with any outdoor patio style. You could also paint or stain it to match your own personal style.
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Start with your 2” x 4” x 8’ lengths. Cut 1/8” off one end so you have a clean, straight edge. You are now ready to set up a stop block and cut all of your pieces. (A stop block acts as your guide, guaranteeing every piece will be cut exactly the same.)
| Cuts | Quantity |
| 2” x 4” x 8’ |
8 @ 16” (l) 4 @ 12” (l) x 1-5/8” (w) 4 @ 13-1/4” (l) x 1-5/8” (w) |
| 1” x 6” x 8’ |
12 @ 14" (l) 3 @ 14-1/2" (l) 2 @ 15 7/8” (l) x 1-1/4" (w) 2@ 13 3/8” (l) x 1-1/4" (w) |
| 2” x 2” x 8’ |
2 @ 15 7/8" (l) with 45° ends 2 @ 14-3/4” (l) with 45° ends |
| 5/4” x 6” x 8’ |
2 @ 21-1/4” (l) x 4" (w) with 45° ends 2 @ 22-5/8” (l) x 4” (w) with 45° ends |
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After the basic cuts are done, it’s time to make the legs. I recommend using a table saw for this. Cut your 16” (l) pieces of your 2” x 4" at 3-1/2” (w) on a 45° angle.
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Glue and clamp the 45° angle pieces together and secure with brad nails. (You must use exterior glue.) Leave it clamped for 24 hours.
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Practice makes perfect! I always like to lay out everything and pre-assemble to make sure it all works together before it’s permanently assembled.
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Measure 14" down on all four legs to mark the leg supports.
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Clamp your two 13-1/4" x 1-5/8" pieces to the top of the legs and at the 14" mark. On the top and bottom rail, toenail with a 3" treated-wood screw so it’s not visible.
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After completing the frame, set three 14" lengths inside the frame. Place two 14” boards vertically (as shown below) for a tight fit before screwing. Make sure the boards are flush on top before pinning and nailing to the frame. Repeat this process for the other side.
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Add the 15-7/8" lengths with the 45° edges to the bottom of the 14" lengths.
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With the two side gables complete, you can now clamp and attach the 12” (l) x 1 5/8” pieces. Repeat screwing and secure as before.
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Use two screws (top and bottom) per board and four screws per side, which secures the boards to the frame.
Secure two 14-3/4" pieces with 45° ends to the frame using 3” screws as shown.
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Take your three 14-1/2" (l) pieces and drill nine holes for drainage. Secure the boards to the base of the unit.
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Mold bed liner to the inside frame of the box and secure it with two 15-7/8” x 1-1/4" (w) and two 13-3/8” x 1-1/4" (w) pieces. Once secured, cut off excess wrap.
Pre-assemble the top trim pieces and tweak them as necessary so you get a perfect fit before securing.
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Once your top pieces are ready, they need to be glued, clamped and pinned together before securing to the top.
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After securing all 45° together, secure the top frame to the box by pinning.
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I mix cedar sawdust with exterior glue to make a paste used to fill the pin holes. After the glue has dried, sand all edges and surfaces smooth using an orbital sander.
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You are done. Start planting!
Text and photos by Barry Maruk
Barry Maruk is a carpenter with a creative passion for design and photography.
