Small Parts Routing Jig (or Sled)
When routing small pieces freehand at the router table, you're at risk. If you avoid routing small parts at the router table, you are missing an incredible number of creative or required parts you can mill. Follow these easy steps to build your own small parts routing jig (or sled) within a few hours using readily available materials and hardware.
For the base, which is about 7" × 14", I recommend using a laminated HDF floorboard, which is hard, stable, durable and very slick to easily ride on your router tabletop. A bottom-waxed or lacquered 3/8" or 1/2" thick good hardwood plywood or MDF would work as well. Drill and countersink the base from underneath and screw a 3/4" × 2" straight hardwood fence on the top for a toggle clamp to sit on, making sure the rubber tip is close to but within the front part edge, as shown.
Cut two 3/4" hardwood plywood or MDF rectangle stops (I used medium-density overlay plywood), about 5" long, the same width as the front part of the base. Using two clamps, temporarily secure those stops to the hardwood fence and head to the drill press to drill a 1/4" hole in the middle of each one through both the fence and the base so the holes will be perfectly aligned. In a further step, the stop holes will be elongated, and the ones on the base will be counterbored to bury the T-bolt heads.
To recess the heads of the T-bolts from underneath, secure the base upside down, as shown, mount a fence (mine is improvised with a cleat and two small C-clamps) to guide a plunge router, and mill two elongated counterbores (shown). If you have good hand-eye coordination, go ahead and mill them freehand. To work more accurately, add stops or raise your work as I did on my shop-made benchtop MFT table to easily see the lines previously drawn around the heads.
At the router table, chuck a 1/4" straight bit set for a 1/8” deep cut (assuming you are using 1/4" T-bolts), drop one plywood stop onto the bit and set the fence accordingly. Using a push stick (mine has a handy and safer rabbeted lower front end), which may also act as a starting stop, mill a centered slot about 3" long on each stop. To work safely, lean one end of the plywood stop against the push stick, slowly drop the workpiece over the spinning bit, and feed slowly or make several shallow passes. Turn off the router, and for safety, wait for a complete stop before removing the workpiece. Make progressive cuts no more than 1/8” deep, and only cut just over halfway through the stop block. Reset the router bit height to 1/8”, then turn the stop end-for-end and make progressive cuts from the opposite face until the slot is complete. This process prevents the spinning router bit from being exposed.
You will need two handles to move and guide the sled around as well as keep your fingers far away from the spinning router bits. I used a salvaged hardwood shovel handle, but any hardwood dowel over 1" in diameter and about 10" long will do (mine are 1 1/4") and be comfortable to grasp.
Drill a hole at one end of each handle to receive a T-nut or a Propell nut (shown). To safely and effectively drill the holes, use a drill press vise or a simple jig you can build in no time using two PVC pipes and a few plywood scraps. Success guaranteed, if built square! Since the handles are meant to be twisted and untwisted a million times, using epoxy glue will ensure they will stay put forever and you won't be at risk.
Chamfer or round over the opposite end of each handle for comfort. My stationary belt sander did a great job cleaning out my salvaged shovel handles. Who would tell?
To properly secure small workpieces to be routed, apply fine self-adhesive sandpaper strips (or use spray adhesive and standard sandpaper) to the business or front end of the base as well as underneath and to the center end of each plywood stop. You don't want any workpieces to move around in the milling process.
Grab your toggle clamp, and let's make some modifications. First, remove the factory bolt/rubber tip assembly. Cut a hardwood foot, drill a hole and mill a counterbore to recess the head of a suitable-size carriage bolt that fits your own toggle clamp. Fill the counterbore with 5-minute epoxy glue and slip in the carriage bolt from the bottom, making sure it is square by adding a temporary nut from above. When dry, apply a strip of adhesive sandpaper. If you don't want to use glue, keep the nut on, but you will compromise the available height. If you add a beefy knob as I did, you will be more than happy when adjusting the foot height for the thickness of the workpieces you will be milling.
To complete the jig, slip a fender washer under each handle and thread the latter onto the T-bolts. Take note that the hardwood foot, yet rectangular, can be positioned in any axis to secure your workpieces effectively. Once the workpiece is positioned, move the two plywood stops against it, drop the foot down and set the down pressure accordingly. If set properly, the workpiece won't move and you will be able to guide the jig slowly towards the spinning bit, always from right to left, and mill all the parts you need. If required, use a table-mount starting pin as well.
If you take a closer look at the last photo, you will notice that I've added a riser between the toggle clamp and the fence. This riser compensates for the hardwood foot thickness compared to the factory rubber tip, and of course it allows you to manage a wider workpiece thickness range. According to the toggle clamp and/or the carriage bolt and/or the fence you will be using, be aware that you may have to add such a riser. Besides that, if you happen to own an auto-adjust toggle clamp, then you're in business, if not in seventh heaven!
Work safely, and happy woodworking!
Serge Duclos started woodworking 40 years ago after purchasing a house. He soon found it was a way to relax from the stress related to his job as a human resources professional. Since retiring in 2004, Serge continues to enjoy his pastime and to update his bilingual woodworking blog http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com with his projects, as well as his tips and techniques.